A day on board La Reine Pedauque

Today, we begin the third day of our cruise. I woke up early than usual, even after last nights late session at the bar with Captain Max. The effect of the slow rhythm of the barge is already on me, I've left the stress of the office in NY way behind, here everything is so different and the chaotic haste of city life seems ridiculous here. I'm feeling like one of the locals and have decided to enjoy the life that is being offered here.

Dijon is now quite a few locks behind us and we are making our way deeper into the countryside. The canal is winding through the narrow part of the valley and the hill tops are covered with trees, whilst the green fields below are dotted with the traditional white Charolais cows, which spend their time slowly munching the grass.

We are moored in a small village called Gissey sur Ouche, very pretty with old stone houses, a church bell rings the hour, vegetable and flower gardens, piles of wood in front of many of the cottages ready for next winter. The river and canal flow through the centre, splitting the village in two. I know it that it's early morning, but I want to walk around the place before the barge leaves. Many houses have wonderful displays of red Geraniums in baskets and hanging in doorways. An occasional dog will bark, a tractor can be heard going up the lane to the farm. Even the two pigeons on the telegraph pole are making pleasant sounds to one another. House martins busy flying around catching food and taking it back to their nests. There is a loud silence here, that of village life.

The Captain mentioned that the barge will begin cruising at 9.30 am, so I still have some time to stroll around the village. The barge actually leaves before I return, but no worry as the next lock is just a few yards away from our mooring and I'm onboard the barge before the skipper leaves the lock.

I'm not the last person at the breakfast table, so I guess some are still asleep... Their missing this!
Hot black coffee and these freshly made, warm croissants are just... I eat the first hastily as my morning walk has already provoked my appetite. I must admit I'm greedy, so I had another one, but this time with some of the home made cherry jam. Deciding to stop after that, as I remember what the chef told me we would be eating this lunch time. I remain at the breakfast table for a few more minutes as a fellow guest has arrived and we easily get to know one another. He and his wife are from Ohio, they're on their second trip to Europe. Their reason for cruising: "To get away from it".

The barge is just passing through a tight left hand turn, ahead is a bridge and the Captain sounds the boats horn just in case there is any downstream traffic. Beside the canal, there is what appears to be a chicken farm, a few hundred chickens having a great time scratching the grass and picking at seeds. As the horn is blasted, there is an incredible panic amongst the farm animals, and in a burst of feathers and flapping of wings, they hurry back up to the "house" and hide. It was a very comical scene.

Two more locks ahead and we arrive in the picturesque village of Saint Victor sur Ouche. As the barge approaches the lock in the centre of the village, the trees aligning the canal give the impression of a massive alley. The old houses and cottages on the left must be at least 200 years old; on the right between the trees you can see the river flowing crystal clear and tumbling over stones and rocks. A "gallo-roman" bridge allows passage from both sides of the village which is split into two parts because of the canal and the river. A car has to stop to give way to some children on bicycles, as the bridge is quite narrow.

The barge arrives at the midday destination with enough time to go and have a drink in the new café at la Bussiere sur Ouche. Whilst serving glasses of Pastis, the owner explains how the old café burnt down a couple of years ago and then goes to explain the hard work and efforts made by all the villagers to rebuild as soon as possible.

Together with the fellow passengers and our guide, we walk down to the nearby abbey which was built in 1132 by the Cistercian monks. The park and grounds of the abbey are surrounded by sources and streams which wind their way down from the hills. There is a large pond with water fowl of all kinds and huge weeping willows leaning towards the water. Further into the park we reach the main buildings, which stand proud and imposing against the background of trees. It's incredible to think that they are in such good condition after all the centuries and history that have passed.